Sláinte!
It’s claimed that five million Canadians have some Irish ancestry. So, with their well-known love of pubs and beer, it was no surprise thatSteve and Nicky Fitzgerald are veterans of the safari industry, so it’s no surprise that there was considerable buzz around their recent opening of Angama Mara. Suspended off the rim of Africa’s Great Rift Valley, a site that is spectacular all on its own, especially during the great migration, the lodge brings a fresh approach to both design and the overall safari experience.
Niall Phelan, one of the three lads who founded Rye River Brewing Company in the heart of the town of Kilcock, markets the brew with hilarious caricatures of his relatives, whom he refers to as “the dysfunctional first family of Irish brewing.” The dandified Fancy Frank is but one of the “McGargles” family; he has a clean, full-flavoured and somewhat fruity late-hopped lager that bears his name. Despite the levity, McGargles brews have won several medals at the International Beer Challenge. Who says business and fun don’t mix?
I also met Jerry O’Sullivan, who was representing Tom Crean’s from Dingle, County Kerry: a wonderful malty, slightly caramelized beer. Tom Crean was a County Kerry boy on Scott’s fateful 1911-1913 Antarctic expedition. The story goes that in order to save the life of two expedition members, Tom walked 35 miles in 18 hours across the Ross Ice Shelf with no tent, no survival gear and virtually no food—hence the 18/35 on the beer’s arresting graphic logo. I’ll drink to that.
Something of a surprise: Finnbarra’s Stonewell Craft Cider, from County Cork. I was expecting a cider that was heavier and somewhat cloying. Instead, I discovered a delightfully light, refreshing summer sipper with hints of Granny Smith apples, good acidity and just enough sweetness. Ideal for a hot summer day.
For nibbles, the pub chefs gave us modern interpretations of traditional Irish fish and seafood dishes. I was fortunate enough to sneak a sample of Celtic Gourmet Irish back bacon as well. The meat, from pigs raised in Ireland but processed in New York, is lean to slightly marbled in appearance with a perfect balance of well-rounded traditional bacon flavours plus a slight hint of sweetness that’s offset by just the right touch of salt. Only available in New York City for now, pity!
beerfestival.camcgargles.com
dinglebrewingcompany.com
finnbarra.com
sevennationfoodco.com
My Birthday Treat!
Sitting on the kitchen counter are two whole sides of smoked salmon fresh from Oven Head Salmon Smokers of Bethel, New Brunswick.
Yes, there’s a story. Years ago, I stumbled upon Oven Head, a family-run artisanal salmon smoking operation a little distance outside of Saint John. Luckily for me and other happy customers, Debbie and Joseph Thorne’s labour of love continues to be to cold smoke salmon over maple wood chips in a small shed, seemingly in their backyard.
According to their website, the Thorne’s salmon come from specially selected farm stock in the Bay of Fundy that are fed on nutrients primarily derived from local herring. Consequently, their smoked salmon has a uniquely delicate, creamy mouth feel that’s more reminiscent of sashimi than some of the oilier commercially smoked salmon.
It wasn’t long after I returned home to Toronto that I realized I had to have more! So I contacted Debbie Thorne, who said of course she could ship me some. When I asked how I could pay, she said she would send me a bill—that’s the sort of people they are (at the time, they did not take credit cards). It arrived a couple of days later by Air Canada air freight; however, I had to collect it from the airport.
Things have changed: The Thornes now take credit cards and they use a door-to-door courier service. My birthday salmon arrived in a big polystyrene container with cold packs inside. It’s still well chilled…and so good that I can’t resist eating some, on its own, right from the pack!
Freshly cold smoked salmon—one of life’s unalloyed luxuries.
Icy Treat for the Holidays
Scratching your head over what holiday gift to get for that person who really does have everything? Pondering a special corporate gift for an overseas client?
Perhaps you’re looking for something indulgent for yourself to open on Christmas morning. No matter what the question, Inniskillin may have the answer with their 40th Anniversary limited-edition ultra-premium Riesling Icewine.
Fittingly, this 750-mL crystal-calibre limited edition is beautifully packaged in a velvet-lined display box along with a crystal decanter closer. Each bottle is individually numbered and signed by award-winning winemaker Bruce Nicholson.
As all icewine, the 40th’s grapes were hand-harvested naturally frozen on the vine at -10C in Inniskillin’s Pratt vineyard. They were then immediately pressed at the winery, fermented in small batches using select yeasts, and lightly aged in Canadian oak barrels.
I sampled this rare wine—and it’s a blockbuster. In the glass it’s a pale gold viscous liquid with aromas predominantly of honey with hints of raisins and apricots and a lovely, long finish. Nicholson is to be commended on its intensity, firm body, and sweetness that’s balanced by moderate acidity.
My preference? Forget the sweet or salty accompaniments—savour this nectar of the gods on its own with a few friends. Blazing log fire optional.
Good news: This wine will be available in time for the holiday season; you can buy from Inniskillin, online or at the LCBO for $500.
Creamy Goodness
It was a fine summer evening and before me was a mouth-watering homemade fruit tart. But what was that insipid frothy white stuff on top? Allegedly cream. My disappointment sent me in search of rich, high-viscosity cream to complement the slight acidity of the fruit tart. No luck in the supermarkets: just more of the ubiquitous 35% whipping cream.
Then I remembered that the folks at M Square Coffee Company, which I’d profiled in my previous column, swore by Sheldon Creek Dairy products. Whipped with a little sugar, their 45% gave me exactly the sinfully thick rich cream I was looking for.
My curiosity was piqued, so I spoke with Marianne of the Den Haan family, which runs the dairy. None of their products are homogenized, she told me, and they are only minimally pasteurized. Sheldon Creek is also one of only three dairies in Ontario that process their own milk.
Noteworthy: Sheldon Creek 45% is in short supply, with only 85 bottles produced each week. And, although their milk is available in Toronto, to get the cream you have to travel to their farm in Loretto (north of Bolton) on Wednesday, Thursday or Friday. Not surprisingly, the entire supply is usually gone by the weekend. It’s worth the drive!
